Now that surprised you didn't it ?? It certainly surprised me !! I've spent an age trying to come up with a title for this one and I wrote this post in my head numerous times on the flight home. It was perfect, eloquent, precise, interesting, laugh out loud funny and..... clearly totally forgettable as sitting here now I can't remember any of it. Still, I'll do as I always do and make it up as I go along, then read it back at the end to see if any of it makes sense.
I should have titled this ‘At Home’, having taken the very hard decision to cut short my trip and return to the UK, which is where I'm writing this. It's much harder to write about NZ from here and I've already re-written this paragraph three times. The words just seemed to flow much easier when I was there. I was always on a one year plan and as it was, I didn't last that long. I won't go into detail on a public web space as to my reasons for returning but suffice to say that it was entirely the right decision under the circumstances and one that I'm hugely disappointed that I had to make.... but also one that I don't regret at all.
So the questions I'll pose are these "was it worth it ?", and "Am I going back?" The honest answer to both is...... that I don’t know.
New Zealand is a visually stunning place, probably unique in the World for the diversity of landscapes, seascapes and wildlife. I don’t think anywhere else has it all in one location and all so accessible. I don't think anywhere has it in such abundance and with free car parking to boot! Consumerism around the World would generally mean that the car parks would be chargeable by the hour and the natural vistas hidden from the road by strategically placed lines of trees and shrubs... or a visitor centre forcing you to pay the entrance fee to take in the view. I didn't witness any such activity in New Zealand, most likely because there are so many views to be had, it would be impossible trying to hide them !
There's no doubt that New Zealand has familiarity for a Brit. The union flag appears on the Kiwi flag, some of the landscapes look like Cumbria on a sunny day in August, they drive on the same side of the road as us, drive similar cars, speak the same language, watch the same TV programmes, they adore their 'pie and chips' and 'fish and chips' and just about anything with chips if the truth be told. The place is familiar and yet it's also so different. Let me give you a number of examples, You get sunburn but without any sunshine, in fact you get sunshine, period. You go Christmas shopping but you do so in sunglasses, t-shirts and shorts. You have a Christmas dinner but it's barbecued on the beach in the height of Summer. You watch Liverpool v whoever, live from Anfield but you do so at 1AM in the morning having spent the day atop a volcano. Terry Wogan's on the radio but he's now your drive-time radio host. Do you see what I mean? Familiar but different !
Because of the early curtailment of my adventure, there are many things that I wanted to do but didn’t get the chance. I wanted to visit Wellington & Christchurch and see the Southern Alps. I wanted to take a boat trip out to the Fjords of Milford Sound, and visit both the Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers. I wanted to pitch a tent in the Coromandel. I wanted to Bungee in Queenstown and Skydive in Taupo. I wanted to see the migrating sperm & humpback whales in Kaikoura. I wanted to buy a boat and fish in the ocean or maybe just kayak in the bays.
I did however get to tramp in the bush, and I dipped my toes in both the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. I ate New Zealand pies & fish and chips (the two accepted national dishes), I sat on the beach and watched the surfers, went in search of Orca, scaled more than one volcano, more than once,
viewed Auckland from the Sky-tower and other lofty locations, had a close encounter with elephants, Orangutan's, dolphins & penguins, saw a kiwi bird(captive - but it still counts) met some truly lovely people, wandered open jawed through some amazing parks and took some memorable photo's, several of which have graced these posts over recent weeks.
New Zealand was as lush as I always thought it would be, maybe arriving at the end of a wet Winter was the reason for that. I enjoyed spending time with the Kiwis, and I admire their can-do, "no worries" approach to life. It’s a refreshing change from our own society and something we could all benefit from emulating a little more perhaps. The kiwis were without exception helpful, polite, friendly and welcoming and above all, totally genuine throughout my time there. I was taken by the lack of obvious crime, that I could walk anywhere and not feel threatened, that the teenagers would smile and say hello as they passed, that the school children would look as immaculate in their uniforms at the end of the day as they had at the start. That children's evenings would be spent riding bikes, fishing or having a kick-a-bout in the road with jumpers for goalposts, just like I remember from my own childhood but sadly lacking these days back home.
I liked the beer (although I probably didn't have anything like as much as I needed to form a true opinion). I liked the freshness of the food, and the vibrant colours of the groceries on the shelves. The bread was tremendous. I liked the fact that a delivered Pizza was cheap at $9.95, (£3.50) but I resented the higher cost of most foodstuffs and practically every consumable item in the shops. I also resented the lack of choice on offer, both of these, a consequence of living in one of the most remote countries on earth I guess ? I only really food shopped at Pak 'n' Save though – I couldn’t muster the enthusiasm to traipse all over town to visit the butchers, the bakers, the fishmongers and the greengrocers, like my parents did in the UK when I was growing up and like the locals do in New Zealand now.
The pies were sumptuous, delicious and numerous too. I loved the freshly caught fish and freshly made chips. They were outstanding compared to the frozen "keep them warm until closing time" practice of British chippies.
Watties beans were not the same as Heinz, despite being the same manufacturer. I loved the coffee, milder than in Europe, and I loved the enormity of the coffee cups (France, please take note !) I loved the EFTPOS payment system, as close to a cashless society as I've ever encountered anywhere in the World. I loved the fact that bank receipts would appear in my bank almost immediately and not 3 days later. I loved the 7% interest rate paid to me for my savings but not the charges levied with every transaction.
I loved the warmth of the sunshine during the day, and the crystal clear view of the sky at night. I hated the cold that descended so quickly in the evening, and the speed with which the house cooled as soon as it went dark. I also never got used to the brevity of twilight. One moment it's bright but with a fading sunset, the next moment it's night, which always left me wondering "what happened to tea time"?? I loved the fact that the features on the moon looked different, due to the change in angle that I was now viewing it from. I hadn't expected that and certainly hadn't noticed it on previous trips to the Southern Hemisphere. I liked that. I liked that a lot !
I loved the ease of driving, the modern automatic cars that, once placed into "waft-o-matic" would just cruise down the wide, mostly empty, straight roads without the stresses experienced in the UK. In the main I found the kiwis driving standard to be courteous, unhurried and easy going and certainly was no-where near as I bad as I had been led to believe. I never really got used to the right-turn-rule, but only fell foul of it once. I also didn't get to grips with the steering column stalks being on opposite sides which consigned me to forever going round corners with the windscreen wipers on !
The TV, with the exception of Sky, was very poor, but as I was there for such a short period of time, it wasn’t a problem. I did however love the live Premier League games on 2 or 3 times a week, although watching it in bed overnight or more often, before breakfast, was something that remained a novelty throughout! In fact I saw more live football whilst I was away than is ever possible in Britain, such is the way of broadcasting rights.
I loved the beaches of Torbay, Milford, Mission Bay and St Heliers. I loved the cottages with the ocean, lake or river views. I could easily see me returning one day to live in one of those houses.
I didn't like the sectioning, resulting in having neighbours where both your front and back gardens should be. I didn't like the flimsy construction of many properties, the lack of both double glazing and central heating and nor did I like the ridiculous, no scandalous, cost of renting. But my overall thoughts ? New Zealand, I loved it. In fact I love most things about it. The negatives, as far as I can tell, are easily fixable with little more than time, money and effort or at least, by not living in Auckland. Auckland was a great place to visit but like London, I personally wouldn't want to live there. The New Zealand I came to see has bigger skies, less cars, less people & less shops. It's out there for sure and you really don't have to look hard to find it either.
As heart wrenchingly disappointed as I was to return, I love being back here too. Driving around the other day I was struck by how green it was, and how vibrant were the many shades covering the Autumnal fields, hedgerows and trees. The traffic is not quite as sparse as New Zealand, but its light and slow where I live so it's seldomn a problem. I love the fact that there is rolling, open countryside to the left of me and town facilities to the right of me. I like the convenience of British life, online shopping, a wide choice of...well, everything, nothing is ever "too far away". The trains, the buses, the motorways, the airports. That I can be in both the Lake District or Europe in a couple of hours. I love the fact that my family & friends are nearby and that I, and they, can drop in at any moment. I love the robust houses, central heating, double glazing. I love the fact that I can look out of MY kitchen window and not be able to read the neighbours newspaper on THEIR dining room table !
The trip was just a one years big adventure for me, nothing more, nothing less. I didn't really expect to come back however but, having done so, I may return one day to continue. I didn't get homesick once, you can never tell in advance how you're going to feel but for me, homesickness was never an issue although maybe I wasn't away long enough....These also aren’t the ramblings of a homesick virgin traveller either, I’ve bragging rights from trips to many dream destinations. I’ve watched the Space Shuttle launch at Cape Canaveral, climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge, cheered on Ferrari in both Monaco & Melbourne, boarded the Star Ferry in Hong Kong, watched the surfers from Wakiki Beach, Honolulu, strolled the "Walk of Fame" on Hollywood Boulevard, slid, out of control and mostly on my backside, down a French Alp, watched the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace, Oslo, played - and lost - in a Vegas Casino, rafted through the Grand Canyon, surveyed Paris from atop the Eiffel Tower, scuba dived with sharks, rays and turtles on the Great Barrier Reef, attended a NATO Military conference in Brussels, sailed along the canals of both Amsterdam and Bruges, crossed the Charles Bridge in Prague, hiked through an alpine forest in Slovakia, taken a cruise ship to the Bahama's...twice and performed numerous other activities, in numerous other countries. I didn’t go to New Zealand to add it to this list, but because I’d thought of nothing but living there for the last couple of years.
My advice to everyone is go there. Sell the car to fund the trip, re-mortgage, take out a loan, play the Lottery but you
must and I mean,
must, visit this place if only for your annual holiday.
Be prepared for wonder. Be prepared for scenery of such beauty that it
will take your breath away. Be prepared for overwhelming friendliness. Be prepared to step back to a simpler, more relaxed era.
Be prepared for a country that’s fiercely proud of itself. Be prepared to find that you can be more sociable than you had ever previously thought. Be prepared to take far more pleasure in simpler things, and forget the conditioning of consumerism.
But also be prepared to realise that it is different, despite the obvious similarities, and that perhaps it may just not suit you. Be prepared for the high cost of living and the woefully low salaries. Be prepared to micro-budget for everything and also to forgo the little luxuries that you've previously taken for granted. It's easier said than done, believe me... I know !For some, the grass has been, and will always be greener over there, for others it won’t.
I haven't included any "Things I've learned this week" section on this occasion as quite simply, this post is entirely about the things I've learned. I have in summary, learned a lot about New Zealand and I've learned a lot about me. I'm massively richer for the experience if poorer in the bank balance but undeniably, It's been a blast and who knows what will happen in the future, where it will occur and where life will take me? Whatever happens, it'll no doubt be an equally life changing experience.
I think I'll carry on this blog to record my future exploits, even though it was set up to record my time in New Zealand. I've enjoyed writing it immensely and I've had nothing but positive feedback from those of you who've read it. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart ! I may well go back to live in New Zealand in the future so I can continue the theme of the blog at a later date, I still have my visa after all. Should I return, I doubt that it will be to Auckland (too expensive and not the NZ I came to see) and I'll finance the trip differently to make the numbers add up next time. So until I post again, take care, god bless and much love to you all !
John